Saturday, March 29, 2008

Day 3 & 4: Kanazawa (金沢)

After meeting Chika & gang in Kyoto, my little research (chiefly Lonely Planet and Frommer's) brought me to Kanazawa, the capital city of Ishikawa Prefecture. I stayed for two nights (24, 25 March).


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Arrival: 24 March, 18:00
Departure: 26 March, 14:40

Weather (High/Low):
12/10, 晴れ (24th March)
17/4, 晴れ (25th March)

A little introduction from japan-guide:
During the Edo Period, Kanazawa was the seat of the Maeda clan, the second most powerful clan after the Tokugawa in terms of rice production and fief size. Accordingly, Kanazawa grew to become a town of great cultural achievements, rivaling Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo).

In World War Two, Kanazawa was Japan's second largest city (after Kyoto) to escape destruction by air raids. Consequently, parts of the old castle town, such as samurai, temple and pleasure districts, have survived in pretty good condition.


Some last shots of Kyoto before I leave on the 3 hour bus ride to Kanazawa.






Free hot tea dispensed at rest stops along the highway


The Sea of Japan (or so I think it's called)


Kanazawa at last (formed by cute mini water fountains)


Ultra-modern glassy JR Kanazawa station...


...with a Japanese touch of course


Scramble intersection in the city (Katamachi)


Pretty good gyoza teishoku for dinner at 餃子の王将




The cute loop bus that goes around the major sites in Kanazawa


Omicho Market, selling Kanazawans fresh seafood since the Edo Period




Lunch at Omicho Market - could hardly finish it as good as it was




Kanazawa Castle Park






One of the three best gardens in Japan - Kenrokuen






















Most people just hope to pass their exams




Kanazawa's Myoryuji Temple or ninja dera (ninja temple) is a fascinating amalgamation of traditional temple architecture, hidden doors, passageways, and hidden escape routes. Although the temple is often referred to as ninja dera, it is in fact not connected with ninjas at all (this does not stop local tour operators and shops from selling ninja trinkets). Local legend has it that the temple, with its hidden doors and passageways, was intended as a secret refuge for the local rulers in the case of an external threat.





Pictures weren't allowed, but there was an English guidebook that explained all the traps for the enemy should they attack the temple. See the paper lined steps in the picture above? They would alert the people within the temple and give them chances to stab the enemy (in the foot?) should they be climbing those stairs.
There were also quite a few more cool sliding doors and trapdoors within the 5 storey high temple, which was made to LOOK like it was only 3 storeys high (as decreed by the shogun or something).


Love Japan and its rivers! We need more in Singapore so that we can laze by the side of one should we ever feel the need to.



Nagamachi "Samurai" District, where houses of former samurai are preserved. The place is really clean and pristine, with small streams running through the fronts of the houses. I'd like a stream to run through the front of my house next time!






Some of the houses are now chic boutiques


We all know Shibuya 109 - here's Korinbo 109





Stopped by a teahouse for anmitsu (which I still crave for in Tokyo now!)


Had a late dinner back at Omicho market for fresh sushi which was closing (it was only 7.45pm)


One of my faves - amaebi


In short, Kanazawa is an amazing city where the brand new coexists (brand new shopping complexes - Forus, 109) with the traditional (Kenrokuen, Nagamachi and geisha districts) - and was actually cleaner (however possible that could be) than the other cities I'd visit later. It could just be the spanking modern station and shopping streets that impressed me, but I liked Kanazawa for what it is. The weather then was pretty good too (significantly colder than in Kyoto) but it would get unexpectedly much colder as my trip went on.